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Hasta Luego, Sayulita

...and now our adventure begins

sunny 30 °C

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Travel buddies

Four years ago, we took a three-month bus trip through Mexico, which began with five weeks in Sayulita. As we were leaving on the bus to head south, our friend Elizabeth observed, " You have had your holiday - now your adventure begins." And so it is again - our five weeks in Sayulita, part of which was made extra-special because we shared it with our kids, ends tomorrow. Our holiday is over and our adventure begins.

We've been coming to Mexico for seven years. Every February we drove to Victoria, parked our car for 10 nights at the Cedarwood Inn, and grabbed a cab at 4:30 a.m. to catch a 6:00 a.m. flight. Alaska Air via Seattle, landed in Puerto Vallarta. Bumped and jostled for 45 minutes on the local bus to Sayulita, and checked in to Macondo Bungalows. This annual all-too-brief break from winter was consumed with beach walks, swimming, exploring the town, walking through the hills, tacos, tequila, cerveza, and hanging out with new friends. It was never enough time, but it was all we had, and it was precious. Sayulita became the place we dreamed about when we weren't here.

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A sweet little town full of contradictions - hippies, surfers, inveterate travellers, wealthy gringos,
fringe characters, daytrippers, families, and us.

We're not sure when we'll be back here. There is so much more Mexico to explore, and we're excited to have our senses sharpened again. Still lots to love here, and mostly great memories. Here are some of the things we'll think about when we think of Sayulita:

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small streets lined with palm trees, shops, juice bars, taco stands - and the majority of them are Mexican-owned

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Nightly entertainment in the main plaza. This is the town hangout - ringed by restaurants and food stands.
Fantastic people-watching - kids chasing each other, teenagers making out, impromptu hula hoop demos. This night we were entranced by the African drumming and the energy and rhythm of the dancers.

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The markets - always fun to look for treasures.
I love these rustic dishes - very typical, and found in almost every restaurant.

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The Mexican craftsmanship and attention to detail is so fine, so exquisite.

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A whimsical decoration on the side of a shop - a mosaic done entirely with bottle caps

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We had a memorable beach day this week - the ocean was having a big day. We began our beach walk in the morning around 8:30 and discovered that we had just missed a whale sighting, right in the bay, about 200 metres from shore - very unusual. There were a huge number of birds flying around over the water - way more than usual, so something interesting was happening (all tied to the moon cycle, according to our shoreline experts). There were a number of fishermen out, the usual gringos, as well as a couple of young Mexican boys. Then this man appeared, just RUNNING down the beach, and flung himself into the waves. He is quite the local character - a wiry , intense man named Greg who has lived here for 20 years, is married to a Mexican woman and fishes with the physicality of a jockey going after the Triple Crown. He kept landing fish called Jack Trevalles - they are considered "okay" eating, but more fun to reel in. Later that afternoon, we were on the beach and this scene repeated itself. Birds began swooping and diving right in front of us - pelicans , frigatebirds, gulls - hundreds of birds. The waters were churning, the fish were jumping, and the swimmers and surfers were now out of the water, for their own safety, and to watch the show. Then, the fishermen arrived, (including Greg) - men with nets, boys with fishing line wrapped around plastic spools - it was a fantastic spectacle. The frigatebirds were stealing the catch right off the beach!

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The beach - Sayulita is all about the beach and all the ways we play in the water. Surfing and stand-up paddleboarding is huge in Sayulita - they could be iconic symbols for this town. But just playing in the waves is good enough for us, and being in ocean water, alive and oxygen-rich, is my idea of heaven. We had fun watching this couple - they were doing shoulder stands in the water, then came ashore to put themselves through a number of gymnastic and dance moves, with the sunset as a backdrop.

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Meeting up with friends. We went to Puerto Vallarta to meet Joy and Oscar, who had landed there for a few days before heading to Guanajuato for a month. We walked the malecon, admired the sculptures, had a drink with the sandmen, and had a couple of Pacificos on the beach. So much fun.

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Part of the joy of coming back here each year has been the opportunity to catch up with the same friends. We met Elizabeth and Peter, from Portland, four years ago. They've just arrived and their kids, grandkids and in-laws are arriving today - they are so excited to share Sayulita with them. We can really relate to that - having our kids here at Christmas was a highlight for us.

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We went to a Mexican dentist to have our teeth cleaned! Fantastic experience - Dr. Majda and his hygienist Karen, speak perfect English. Their office is modern, spotlessly clean, and our cleanings cost US $46 each- we saved $300. They work 7 days a week during December, January and February. "All us old gringos and our teeth," I commented to Karen. She just smiled.

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Mel and Charlie are the delightful owners of Macondo Bungalows. They live in Fort McMurray in the summer and in Sayulita from October to May. Lupe (Lupita) is the housekeeper - we've amused her for years with our horrible Spanish. Lupe has rules - our shoes are lined up against the wall, and our second pillows are not allowed to be tucked under the bedspread. We will really miss her.

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Our unit is the one on the top floor.

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Finally, one of our enduring memories of Sayulita is the beach walk. The beautiful long shadows, the mist coming off the water - the morning has always been the best time here. Steve asked me to pose and "look reflective" , so this is me looking thoughtfully into the distance.

Our next stop is three days in Melaque, where we will spend some time with Jennifer and her mum. Talk to you soon.

Posted by millerburr 08:13 Archived in Mexico

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Comments

Thanks for the blog update.

Melaque, a lot more Mexican then Sayulita, nice market there.
Reading your blog and seeing the pics makes us feel we were there.

Showing of the house today, one step closer to Vic.

Please say hello to Steven from us and bien vieago

by Robert and my much better half

It is wonderful to travel with you, Ginny and Steve. Thank you for these evocative "letters". Ginny, you look marvelous. So relaxed and fit. Please give my best to Jennifer (haven't met her mom) who will be in the air flying to Mexico as I write! A beautiful day here--sunny and lots of river otters. And a great walk with Margy to start the day. It's not Mexico, but it's alright!
Best to you both,
Shelagh

by Shelagh

Hi Giiny, always enjoy you blog. Safe travels. We are so enjoying Guanajuato,feel like we have come home to the real Mexico.

by Joy

Hi guys! As always enjoy your writing and excellent photos.

by Jean

U do look fabulous ! Gord and I have loved your commentary on Sayulita as well as the accompanying photos. Looking forward to the next chapter. Safe travels Bonn & Gord.

by Bonnie

Say goodbye to Scrappy for me! A nice big hug and kiss, and let him know I'll be back someday :)

by Alanna Beaton

Your stories and accompanying pictures have made me feel like I'm right there with you ... better than any travelogue I've ever been to! I look forward to the next instalment ...

by Heather

Loving being in Sayulita through your eyes Ginny!

by Simone Bell

Super stuff, and you two look so healthy and happy. Love it up, best Dave and Laureen

by dave

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