A Travellerspoint blog

March 2016

Losing my innocence in Guanajuato

sunny 28 °C

Well, I'm far too old to be making this kind of public confessional, but I have been operating under the misguided impression that Canadians are well-regarded on the world stage. I was shocked to discover this is not the case in Guanajuato and probably not in the rest of Mexico. We came upon this mural yesterday, depicting the rapacious history of the silver and gold barons.
The rough translation of the script is: They came to exploit and loot the gold and silver - first the Spanish, then the Canadians.

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The Canadians? The history of exploitation among the indigenous people is well-known, but this mural brings us up-to-date on Canada's involvement with over 200 mines in Mexico, and their continued ill-treatment of the locals. After NAFTA, Canadian mining companies were able to operate in Mexico with far fewer restrictions and regulations, and it would appear they have most definitely not put the interests and safety of the Mexicans first. From the tiny bit of research I did, Canadian mining companies pay local workers between $150-$200 US a week, while they make profits of hundreds of millions of dollars every month. A local source told us that the pay, the working conditions and the security for locals is appalling, with the cartels moving in for their cut of the "cooperation" money. Violence and threats are common. Our source also hinted at the mining executives' involvement (voluntary or otherwise) with the cartels and government. Mexican history is filled with injustice, hardship, violence, corruption and a fight for survival - it never seems to end.

Mexico's history is also filled with rebellion and revolution. El Pipila, which towers over the city, is a monument to the first victory of the Independence movement in 1810. This monument is a major tourist attraction, reached by a funicular (currently closed), a taxi, bus or by foot. We chose to walk up to get a closer look at some of the city's famous alleyways.

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We climbed up through a maze of twisty callejones to reach the top.

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The view of the city from this vantage point really shows how piled together the buildings are. See that tiny green triangle? That is the Jardin de Union - the centro's main greenspace and meeting point - it is so much smaller than similar jardins in other colonial cities.

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We chose a different path down and this was where we encountered several walls filled with murals (including the political statement on Canada). We look for these murals in every city we visit - they tell so many stories - past and present.

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Another thing we look for are the more sanctioned forms of street art - usually sculptures. Leonora Carrington, a British-born artist and part of the Surrealist movement who lived most of her life in Mexico City, was a prolific producer of sculptures and paintings. There are eight larger-than-life Carrington sculptures on the streets of Guanajuato - most with her distinctive cat-like eyes, and long, bony fingers and toes.

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Since we visited most of the major sites and museums when we were in Guanajuato five years ago, this time we concentrated more on the art galleries, wandering the streets and visiting sites just a bit outside centro. Some samplings:

I really like this art gallery. There is a Leonora Carrington sculpture peeking over the roof, pink sandstone window frames and lintels, and inside, every floor has inlaid mosaic tile "carpets" - about 200 years old. Try and imagine the work involved - this floor was probably 20' x 25'.

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There was an exhibition of Colombian artists - this one, called The Other White Elephant is by Felipe Cifuentes. I'm not sure he is even 30 years old yet (I wish I had taken notes), but he is a huge talent who is currently living in Mexico, and his show had about 20 extremely provocative paintings.

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This one, by Gustavo Rico Navarro, is an example of his figurative work. This woman is modern, but looks like an 18th-century Madonna. His paintings all have a twist - the older people look as though they may be dead, the children look a little too knowing, sexuality is ambiguous - I would love to learn more about him.

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We headed out to La Presa a couple of days ago - the reservoir that provides Guanajuato with its drinking water. The reservoir is equipped with a fleet of small boats to rent, and ringed with souvenir and food kiosks.

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La Presa was once home to the city's wealthiest families - most of those mansions are now government or corporate buildings. This stately building is the Governor's Palace.

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The walk back revealed a neighbourhood that has become quite mixed. This modern building and park added a lot to the streetscape.

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This one did not. It has been abandoned - parts of the roof are falling in - sadly, it may be too late to reclaim it.

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No signs on this building - it may be a private home.

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This former mansion has been turned into a restaurant/gallery.

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Today was our last day in Guanajuato, and on the advice of new friends, we took a bus to the outskirts of town to visit the ex-hacienda San Gabriel de Barrera. It was a highlight of our time here.

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Mexico has a number of haciendas that are still in operation, as well as former haciendas that have been turned into luxury hotels. This hacienda was built in the 17th century as one of five - they operated as factory-style working farms. Hacienda San Gabriel was abandoned for 137 years, and re-opened in 1946. But, back to the beginning. We met our very charming and informative guide Carlos at the gate, and he spent over an hour showing us around the hacienda and filling us in on the history.

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The silver and gold-mining hacienda first belonged to a very wealthy family, Captain Gabriel de Barrera, his wife and their two daughters. The property was run by indigenous (almost-slaves), but the household help were black, and had more privilege. As well, the family was assigned a priest and a housekeeper - spies for the church and the Spanish government, respectively. Captain Barrera was required to give 10% of the gold to the church and 20% to Spain. This was the room that belonged to the priest - he was able to eavesdrop on the Captain, who had meetings in the other room.

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After the uprising in 1810, the hacienda was seized and remained empty until 1946, when a wealthy industrialist bought it (he made his money bringing typewriters to Mexico). By 1950, he developed 17 acres of gardens all around the home, turned the house into a private museum and built another home on the property as his family's "weekend home."

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In 1975 the corrupt governor of the day took a liking to the hacienda and made the industrialist "an offer he couldn't refuse". He took up residence for a few years until In 1979, the government changed hands and returned the favour to the governor. (The governor wisely chose to vacate the premises and is now living out his old age a free man in Queretero.) The hacienda has been a government-owned public institution ever since, with the home and magnificent gardens a living museum from a different era.

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One last word from Guanajuato. While we were here, we had the good fortune to meet not one, but two Canadian couples, who have sold their homes, almost all their belongings, and are travelling the world. Their stories are different, but their motivations are the same - there is too much world, and too little time, and they wanted to be unencumbered for as long as they are able, to just pick up and go.

We've decided to join them (not literally, but in spirit). We will return home, see our dear friends, and then put our home on the market. When it sells, we will begin to divest ourselves of our belongings, except for a small storage unit to house our most precious possessions. Everything else we will sell. Our plan is to travel for a month/2 months, then rent a small furnished place in Ontario, BC, Halifax, maybe Portland. Travel again. Sit down again and spend time with family and friends. Repeat until we can't/don't want to do this anymore.

Anyone know someone who wants to buy a pretty Gulf Island home?

We're off to Zacatecas tomorrow for a couple of days - talk again soon.

Posted by millerburr 19:19 Archived in Mexico Comments (11)

Lost and found in Guanajuato

sunny 27 °C

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Guanajuato is built around a tight valley, with the city centre fanning out along the flat bottom of the "bowl" and the rest of the city climbing up the steep sides. Street signs are few and far between. It is easy to get lost and just as easy to get found. If you find yourself feeling a bit bewildered with all streets starting to look alike, simply walk downhill until you reach level ground again.
It's the best kind of "stumble-upon" sightseeing.

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Guanajuato became a hugely wealthy city in the mid-16th century due to its silver and gold deposits. Evidence of that former wealth shows in the stunning neoclassical and baroque buildings that have earned the city a UNESCO World Heritage Site designation.

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Interestingly, most of Guanajuato's homes lack any ornamentation at all, except for a full palette of vivid colours.

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This is a "real" city, with residents going about their business. It can feel a bit gritty - so interesting, so historical, but also in need of a paint job in places.

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The area that we are staying in is just out of the centro - a series of apartments that face into one another. We have gotten to know the kids who live in two other apartments a little bit. They play in the courtyard right in front of our stairs - the first day they had their Barbie dolls out and yesterday they had chairs lined up - they were about to deliver a play. It's a pleasure to have a quick chat with them every day - they're so polite and curious. This is the edge of our street - the jacarandas are out in full bloom in the city - gorgeous.

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There are far fewer foreign tourists here than San Miguel, for example, and far less English spoken. Mind you, this week was taken over with tourists, both foreign and national, to celebrate Semana Santa. Today the crowds are just starting to thin out. Here are a few images from the Good Friday processions:

Soldiers waiting for the procession to begin.

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I wondered why this soldier had his baby with him. No babysitter? The mother in me
was wanting a hat for her little head, out in the hot sun for over an hour.

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Then the procession began - led by the two thieves who were crucified with Jesus, each carrying heavy boards on their shoulders and followed by guards flogging them as they walked. It was quite realistic, and even though the "thieves" were not really being whipped, they were carrying a heavy load and walking in hot robes in their bare feet.

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The next group to follow the thieves were the common criminals - all of them is burlap sacks, hoods and thick ropes. They carried the platform with Jesus - on the cobblestones, in their bare feet. I don't know how they stood it - as spectators, we were all so hot. For them, it must have felt like real punishment.

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We saw another procession on Good Friday evening, with crowds led by men in conical hoods (with an uncanny resemblance to the Ku Klux Klan), and a procession carrying out the coffin with Jesus. It was quite a spectacle, and unfortunately, all my photos were blurry - my little camera does not do night shots well.

GTO is a university town - around 20,000 students keep the city lively and current. The Universidad de Guanajuato is a sight to behold - it is one of the more stately and dominating buildings in the city, and those many steps are always full of people of all ages.

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One of the most distinctive features of Guanajuato are the network of tunnels that have been developed to manage traffic on roads that would otherwise be impossible to navigate. The Rio Guanajuato used to flow underneath the city, causing massive flooding during the rainy season. In the mid-20th century, the river was re-directed by a dam, and the tunnels were used to move cars and pedestrians underground. The result is splendid for pedestrians - less so for drivers. This is one of the main intersections, with cars coming and going from all directions.

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A single tunnel exit - one of many in the city.

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A rather claustrophobic pedestrian entrance - not to be attempted alone, or at night.

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Entering one of these tunnels for the first time can feel downright Jack-the-Ripper-ish. This tunnel took just five minutes to get through, and I have to say I was very happy to see the "light at the end." They're dimly lit, they drip water, the sidewalks are narrow, (I imagine rats), and cars whip by at unholy speeds, but since the population of GTO moves through them nonchalantly, so shall we.

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Another distinctive feature of Guanajuato are the teeny little alleyways (called callejones) - very steep stone steps or paths that lead uphill (and downhill!) between two buildings - in some cases, barely a body width apart.
One of the most famous is the Callejon del Beso (the Alley of the Kiss).

When couples pass through this alley, in order to thwart the legend of tragic love lost, they must stop on the third step and kiss to ensure their love will last forever. You can imagine my surprise when Stephen agreed to take part in this superstition! When we arrived, there were great crowds of people lining up, so we will return when we have more privacy. This couple kissed for so long the crowd began to cheer.

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This beautiful family didn't kiss, but it is obvious they have nothing to fear from the curse of the legend.

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This is the back entrance of the Callejon del Beso - to give you an idea of how narrow some of the streets can be.

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Back in the centro, I had a "pretend" kiss with one of the street performers, who was busking for the Museum of the Mummies. (That was supposed to be a coffin I was in.)

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On the steps of the Teatro Juarez, we watched a hilarious performance by a clown. Our limited Spanish was not a barrier in this case, as his slapstick humour and broad gestures cut through language. He mercilessly picked on members of the audience (about 200 people sitting on the steps), and then once the crowd was warmed up, he asked for a volunteer to help him with his routine. This little boy very bravely got up, but as soon as he faced the big audience, you could see his expression change and his shyness took over.

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The clown kindly returned him to his family and another volunteer was soon recruited. This funny kid was perfect for the job - he was unfazed by all the teasing and the laughs from the crowd, and he turned into quite the little ham. The clown had him pretending to be a toreador, waving a blanket and dodging the charges. He was a natural.

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At the end, he took his applause like a pro.

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Such is life in Guanajuato - every day is a performance. The mariachi bands are in full swing in the Jardin, at least five or six of them at all times, competing with one another as they serenade outdoor diners, or wander in groups, looking for business. These two were enjoying a beer before heading over to the park to work for the afternoon.

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Food, glorious food! We were a little sad to leave the fantastic food scene of San Miguel, as we did not remember Guanajuato as being very distinctive. We figured we would be in for a series of tourist-oriented, over-priced and underwhelming meals. We haven't been here for five years, and things have changed for the better, to our great relief. Our first night, we had dinner at Escarola, a modern yet rustic restaurant with interesting, healthy choices (I had a Portobello burger with pesto). Best of all was the setting - mainly outdoors, in terraces sloping down the hill and a view of the night city. Our table was so unique, I had to take a photo - big slabs of wood with the centre cut out and lined with concrete, and filled with succulents - beautiful. Oh, and that's not a bad shot of Stephen either - he's definitely got his relaxed holiday face on.

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Posted by millerburr 19:14 Archived in Mexico Comments (4)

Our San Miguel does not include gringo bingo

sunny 24 °C

San Miguel suffers from a reputation for being a not-quite-legit version of Mexico - a playground for foreign visitors who can't bear to leave the comforts of home behind. A "gringolandia". It's a reputation that is not undeserved, but doesn't present the whole picture either.

The last time we checked, we were gringos. As in,"mainly white foreigners." Apparently, it is no longer considered a derogatory term although I once had a disgruntled beach vendor in Sayulita hiss "green-gah" at me after I politely declined to buy his CD.

The gringo ex-pats in San Miguel count for just 10-12% of the population of San Miguel but they have altered the landscape here forever. I asked our Mexican dentist about his impressions of the ex-pat scene, and he was quite candid. "We have some gringo friends, but most of them don't mix," he said. "They keep to themselves, they have created their own world here. They play Gringo Bingo. They paint."

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It is still possible to enjoy the pleasures of San Miguel and leave here feeling you have had a Mexican experience. It has a drop-dead gorgeous geographical setting, stunning architecture, and a full range of Mexican art, music, food and craftsmanship. That's our take-away.

This is our last posting from San Miguel and we have some final impressions to share. One of my favourite things about San Miguel is the architecture and the mystery of the doorways - wondering what lies behind. Here are a couple of homes in San Miguel I particularly liked, and could reasonably imagine living in - one-storey, roof-top terraces, great front doors. (This is all I can see from the exteriors - I imagine the interiors as having stone floors, 14-foot ceilings, and spacious rooms arranged around an interior courtyard.)

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Since we're not living here, we have noticed a lot of charming "boutique" hotels - modern art, great lobbies, water features - if we ever came back, we would look for one of these.

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Many hotels have their own particular quirks. As we walked by the Haiku Hotel, Stephen quietly noted, "it probably has small rooms".

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Doorways - just a small sampling of the hundreds of beautiful doors of San Miguel.

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Laneways - some of them so narrow they are pedestrian-only. I wonder about the logistics - delivering a new fridge, or hauling home bags of groceries. What do residents do in the case of an emergency?

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A few street shots. The vistas change hourly, with the light and the sun.

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I was struck by this young boy - he has a lot of character in his face.

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We've watched Mexicans carry incredible loads on their backs - several cartons of water or Coke or beer, supported just by one hand. We saw a couple of men breaking down tables and chairs from an event at the Institute Allende, and were amazed by the balancing act. He has at least 10 chairs piled in this curving arc.

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ART. Lucky San Miguelese - they are surrounded by art and craftsmanship, both modern and centuries-old. We enjoyed our gallery visits as much as we did our street-roaming - beauty at every corner.

Our friends who work with wood will appreciate this piece - it is cut from a fallen granadillo tree - not one nail in this cabinet, and each piece of wood is at least 3/4" thick. I didn't even check the price - I hope the artist is able to charge what he/she deserves to be paid.

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Contemporary art galleries abound - paintings, sculpture, weaving, jewellery - much of it very affordable. We are necessarily restrained - a collector could go a little wild.

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Vintage cultural posters, including one of the world's largest collections from Poland

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Bronze bull, outside the Bellas Artes building

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We were curious about the mirror image painted on two sides of this building

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Sculptures and paintings from a studio in the Fabrica La Aurora - a collection of studios and galleries housed in an old textile mill

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A wall-mounted fireplace that runs on ethanol. It was a thing of beauty and threw off a fair bit of heat - how perfect for smaller rooms.

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Even the planters at Fabrica Aurora have great design.

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Everyone has somewhere to go except this man and his dog. (My interpretation - it may say something completely different to you).

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Lots of dramatic business entrances in SMA.

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Prison Art. Founded by Jorge Cueto-Felgueroso, who was thrown into one of Mexico's toughest jails on a fraud charge (he was cleared 11 months later). He was fascinated by the quality of the tattoo art in prison, and put his entrepreneurial skills to good use to survive. He enlisted some of the inmates to apply their talents to leather rather than skin and the result was over 600 handbags and wallets with one-of-a-kind designs. They are statement pieces - no puppies and rainbows in the prison art collection.

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One of the inmates at work on his design.

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Coming from a slightly different angle - these chairs are also made by prisoners but with no artistic effort involved - just stringing plastic cord around metal frames. The work involved must be therapeutic, ( as opposed to working on a chain gang), as they are insanely comfortable - Stephen fell asleep in one of them. We saw them in Oaxaca without knowing the story behind them, but we found these in the courtyard of the Bellas Artes building in SMA. If we see them for sale on the way home, we'll grab a couple and stuff them in the back seat of the car.

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The Bellas Artes building houses temporary art displays, social commentary work and a host of cultural events. One of the current installations is by artist Lena Bartula who has taken the traditional huipil, which is a garment woven and embroidered by indigenous women of southern Mexico and Guatemala to tell the stories of their lives - children born, crops sown, lives lived. These garments also discreetly tell the hidden stories of the cruelties and inequalities they have had to bear in their lives - they are precious records. The artist has taken the ancient style and adapted it with modern materials to tell contemporary stories. The results are thought-provoking and very relevant to the social and economic upheaval of modern Mexico. Each of her installations uses spools of thread and fabric to imitate original indigenous design.

Bartula examines the waste of the modern clothing industry by sewing tags (Abercrombie & Fitch, Sears, Lord & Taylor, etc.) snipped from people's clothing onto these strands of fabric.

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In this piece, she coloured old slides (still with their images intact) and arranged them in the pattern of a huipil garment.

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My favourite - an interactive piece that honours mothers. Folded papers were provided, and visitors were invited to write a message to their mothers or to any woman who has made a difference to their lives. Mine was easy! These multi-coloured papers are hung to resemble a huipil garment.

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Our final image of San Miguel - may we present Carmen from Queretero. We met Carmen, her husband Daniel and their son Daniel Oscar at a market last week. They were visiting for the day - we shared a lunch table and began talking and as soon as we acknowledged that we enjoyed Mexican music,our new friend jumped up, commandeered the trio playing further down the aisle, and began to sing. We loved her - bright magenta hair, aqua fingernails, astonishing breasts bursting out of her denim onesie - she had the big voice to match. Just another surreal moment in Mexico.

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We've had three grand weeks here, but now we're ready to shake things up a bit - off to Guanajuato tomorrow for a week. We'll talk again soon.

Posted by millerburr 20:48 Archived in Mexico Comments (7)

Shedding tears with the Virgin in San Miguel de Allende

sunny 20 °C

Every day we're in Mexico we learn something new and being in San Miguel during Semana Santa (the week leading up to Easter) is a revelation. Viernes de Dolores (Friday of Sorrows), held each year on the Friday before Good Friday, is unique to San Miguel de Allende and the surrounding small towns. It is also known as Night of the Altars - when churches, businesses and private individuals set up altars to honour the tears of the Virgin. We discovered that the rather homey English name Dolores actually means pain, suffering or grief in Spanish.

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We first heard about The Night of the Altars from a Toronto couple we met a couple of weeks ago, and figured it would be a highlight, but we were quite unprepared for the intensity, the solemnity and the festival atmosphere of the evening. There were dozens of altars set up around the centro; some with pieces that have been in their families for hundreds of years. Thousands of people filled the streets, walking from altar to altar. At times the streets were almost silent and at other times it was very collegial - a holy street party.

Our first altar was just around the corner from our apartment - set up in a hotel courtyard. Each altar was so different, but they all had the same elements in place: bitter oranges to symbolize the Virgin's sadness (many pierced with gold flags to symbolize a heart pierced by grief); pots of sprouting wheat to symbolize Eucharistic bread; chamomile flowers whose colours represent humility (green) and beauty (yellow); purple altar cloths (pain and penitence) and white flowers ( The Virgin's purity). This floor was covered with sawdust, which was painted to create a border and design.

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Some of the altars were open by late afternoon, but the real event did not start much before 7:00 p.m. When we arrived at the massive street altar on Insurgentes Street, in front of the Santa Ana Church, they were still putting on the finishing touches.
(so much work and this would all be gone the next day).

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Buckets of chamomile flowers being brought in to add to the altar.

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A woman leaning in to touch the hand of Jesus.

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The finished altar, hours later.

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One delightful tradition of Viernes de Dolores is the practice of handing out treats - ice cream, popsicles, desserts made of pumpkin or drinks - a symbol of the Virgin's sweet tears. These were generally passed out at the larger altars, and sadly there were a couple of examples of gringo bad behaviour that were cringe-worthy. One woman held up the line while she negotiated the flavour of her popsicle; I watched another woman quietly place her sticky plastic ice cream cup on an ornately carved wooden altar.

Altars lined up on either side of the doorway of a small hotel, with another altar inside the lobby.

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The magnificent altar at the Casa de Allende, featuring the Virgin of Hope. Her dresses change each year, as does the backdrop.

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One of the most popular altars, with more than 4000 visitors each year. This altar is situated in the entry hall of the private Dobarganes family home, with images dating from the 18th century. We had the opportunity to meet and thank the owner of the home, who watched quietly from the sidelines.

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Part of the Dobarganes display

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Another altar set up in a private citizen's living room. As is the way with many Mexicans, the owner of this home received our thanks and compliments with a slightly bashful nod.

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Many of the city's public fountains were trimmed - some of these altars will remain for the duration of the Easter celebrations.

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This small store got into the spirit - a modest altar and a self-serve dish of popsicles sitting to one side.

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There were no religious celebrations yesterday, but today it all ramped up again with Palm Sunday. I remember Palm Sunday from my childhood; being as pleased to receive my new Easter outfit as I was my palm cross. It was a modest little Anglican cross - nothing to compare to the extravagant Catholic crosses and floral displays for sale outside every church in San Miguel. Palm Sunday in Mexico is a joyous affair, and the palm crosses match that spirit.

There were two processions this morning to re-enact Palm Sunday events - both with Jesus on a donkey and the 12 apostles; one real, one a statue. We decided to attend the procession with the "real" Jesus, and joined the line of people waiting for it all to begin.

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Once the apostles arrived the crowd started to perk up. It must be quite an honour to be chosen to be an apostle; a number of them were in bare feet, which is a significant dedication to the role, considering the roughness of San Miguel streets.

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The honour of her father's role was lost on this little girl.

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A crowd of altar boys (and girls) began trudging up the street to join the apostles.

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Then...the main event. Jesus emerged, riding a donkey out to the front of the crowd. While nobody really thought this was Jesus, his presence was electrifying. And in the spirit of our selfie-age, this congenial Jesus waited patiently while overwhelmed people posed for photos with him.

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The priest addressed the crowd for about 10 minutes, and the procession began down the street to the Parroquia in centro.

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Meanwhile, the other procession (with the statue of Jesus on a donkey) was making its way to the Parroquia from Juarez Parque. We arrived to find a mob of people making their way to the church steps.

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The statue of Jesus entering the Parroquia, with hundreds of followers. Once everyone was inside, a mass would begin.

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The band that led the procession to the church, finishing up their act outside the gates.

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Whew! Still over a week of celebrations, parades, processions, music and church services to go. We were in San Miguel for Semana Santa last year - leading up to Good Friday, and it was incredibly moving. This year we will be in Guanajuato for Easter - we wanted to see the differences in the two cities. By all accounts, San Miguel tops the charts for Easter celebrations. I don't believe it matters if you are religious, Christian or a non-believer - I would recommend to anyone wanting to visit San Miguel to try and time it with Semana Santa - it is a spectacle in every sense of the word.

I'll be back with one more San Miguel posting in a few days - lots of beautiful things, people and experiences to share.

Posted by millerburr 16:30 Archived in Mexico Comments (6)

High society weddings and low-brow art find a home in SMA

semi-overcast 22 °C

San Miguel is a top choice for wealthy Mexican weddings. The city is intimate and photogenic, it boasts spectacular cathedrals, and offers the hotels, wedding venues and service staff necessary to carry off 250-guest lists without a hitch. Last Saturday we stumbled upon not one, but two wedding parties. We began our day by wandering around the Juarez Parque, ghoulishly checking out the ruins of Toller Cranston's home. We had been to a showing of Toller the day before at the library; a highly disappointing montage of Toller's life that began with some campy old CFTO ice skating spectacle that was by no means his best work. This was followed by a tour through his home and garden in San Miguel, with a grim, unsmiling Toller saying very little, other than art was in his DNA. It was depressing to see the state of his home - it has been picked apart by his estranged family - there are lawsuits and rumours flying about town, and all in all - a very sad state of affairs. So we were hanging outside his home, trying to peer in through the broken glass, when an excited group of photographers marched past us to secure this spot for their bride and groom.

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Beautiful bride in exquisite gown, handsome groom in morning coat (weirdly making a duck face) and five scruffy photographers.

We carried on towards centro and were walking through the jardin in front of the cathedral when we noticed large men in suits talking into their collars (and packing heat, as we later discovered).

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"This looks like security," we astutely observed, and decided to hang around and see what might unfold.

In no time, the guests began to arrive - a stunning collection of gowns, jewels, hair, nails, red lipstick and 5-inch heels ( the men were equally well turned-out.)

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This young man appeared to be in charge of keeping things running smoothly. He rolled out the carpet, scooted the old lady out of the way, and never stopped consulting his phone. I was dying to ask him who the couple were, but decided against it.

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We (the uninvited ones) listened to the service through the open doors, and then this magnificent couple emerged:

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They made their way slowly through the throngs of onlookers, climbed aboard their horse-drawn carriage and were driven away, waving regally to the crowds. It could have been William and Kate, for all the pomp and theatrics. Judging from the brief look I had at both couples, I was putting my money on this pair going the distance. Stephen did not engage.

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Speaking of theatrics, we have discovered two small movie theatres here and so far, have been to four movies - making up for lost time. We've seen Truth, Carol, The Lady in the Van and The Big Short - really enjoyed them all. I'm going to Muchachas ( a doc about Mexican maids and their Gringo bosses) on Friday and on Saturday we're both going to see Sicario. We've been avid movie-goers our whole lives. When we lived in Halifax, we would scoot down the street to the Oxford - a small second-run theatre. The same guy who handed out tickets jumped up on stage before the lights went down to introduce the movie and thank everyone for turning off their cellphones. One of the theatres here (called "The Pocket Theatre") is similar in its personal touch, except the movies change daily and the building has two small theatres - each with just 21 seats. The price of admission is 120 pesos - just under 10 dollars, and that includes a bag of popcorn and a drink of your choice. The woman who runs it is delightful - she takes the money, checks off the reservations, pours very healthy drinks, and has a firm hand with the gringos, when necessary. (some will try and swap out their assigned seats for better ones). This is the waiting area to the theatres.

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Another waiting area has a fireplace and comfy chairs. There are a series of paintings of Madonna-like women in beatific poses, armed with the tools of their domestic chores - I particularly liked this one.

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On the topic of art (high and low)... San Miguel has long been a mecca for artists. The talent here is varied and wide-ranging, and there are galleries that represent international artists, notably the Skot (Scot with a "k") Foreman Gallery who carries the likes of Keith Haring, Andy Warhol and Salvador Dali. There are many artists who also sell internationally, but may not have the same name recognition or price point. There are many artists who are competent and talented and who sell consistently for decent prices. And then there are the would-be artists - the hobbyists who have taken some art classes and found their muse in San Miguel, but perhaps have not yet found people willing to pay for those efforts. Every Saturday and Sunday in Juarez Parque, there is an art show and sale - open to anyone who wants to display. We strolled by last Sunday, and talked with a number of the artists.

We didn't see anything that grabbed us, but we had a couple of very interesting conversations. One Mexican woman had painted a rather violent abstract that she called Barcelona - a depiction of a city she wants to visit because that is where her father (whom she has not seen for over 40 years) lives.

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I'm not sure who the artist is with this father and son team, but the younger man kept a protective arm over his dad's shoulder.
They had nice work - moody depictions of SMA street scenes.

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After we left the park, we headed over to a showing of "alternative art", that was in fact, less alternative and more geared to the gringo wallet. Some pretty stuff, but quite pricey, and not that edgy. We had to stop when we hit this table though. As you might imagine, "the Donald" is not a big hit down here. These T-shirts were flying off his table at $20 a pop - a great image of Pancho Villa advising Trump what he might do with his wall.

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My darling husband expressed a similar sentiment to some folks last week. We arrived in a restaurant and were assaulted by the loud braying of four people who were having a heated discussion about immigration (specifically Mexican). They all seemed to want to distance themselves from appearing to be Trump supporters, but suggested that "he has a point" with some of his policies. We soon found out what those policies are - one of the women kept stating that she had to wait 12 years to be allowed into the U.S., she didn't just "barge in."

We sat and fumed, and whispered to ourselves. We wondered what their fear is? Are they concerned that a desperate young Mexican who can't live on $6 a day in his country might take a fruit-picking job away from their college-bound kids? Do they not see the irony of wanting to keep "them" out, while swarming down to Mexico for cheap holidays? Do they understand how inexpressibly rude it is to have this discussion in a Mexican restaurant, served by a Mexican waiter, in Mexico?

As they got up to leave, Steve leaned over and quietly and politely said that he couldn't help but overhear their conversation. He told them he was a retired teacher and had taken students to Las Vegas years ago on a hospitality field trip. He mentioned that the manager of one of the biggest hotels down there told him that if the day ever came that they could not employ Mexican workers, Las Vegas would shut down. One of the men muttered something about there being two sides to the story and they left. I could not have been more proud.

Back to art in the park, or the jardin to be precise. There are always events happening in the central jardin, and last week there was a Cuban festival. Tied into those festivities were a couple of evenings of dance competitions/ exhibitions. An announcer would describe the dance (salsa, merengue, cha-cha) about to take place, and then the dancers would bound onto the stage and give it their all for about 10 minutes. We're not sure if they were professionals, as there seemed to be large gaps in grace and rhythm, but it was all good fun.

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Meanwhile, down on the sidewalk behind the stage... the next act was warming up. I'm not sure why we didn't stick around to watch these girls - I'm sure it would have been quite entertaining.

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A couple more performers getting ready for their turn on the stage.

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Last year we had a really fun day at the local hot springs, La Gruta, in spite of the fact that we went on Good Friday, along with every Mexican (and their inflatable devices) within a 20-km. radius. It was madness.
This year, we hit up La Gruta again - a much more sedate experience. There are hot springs in the outskirts of San Miguel and la Gruta is one of the more popular destinations. This one is spread out over several beautiful landscaped acres.

There are three hot spring pools, beginning with this one. It is nothing short of heaven to slide your body into this perfect temperature - warm, soothing and clean.

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From the first pool, you walk over to this pool, ringed by tall palms and with slightly warmer water. If you look over to the left, you'll notice two heads right in front of a small opening in the stone. That small opening leads through a short tunnel to an inside grotto. The water in there is very warm, the atmosphere is humid and close and at regular intervals, a cascade of water falls blasts from an opening in the wall. People line up to have their turn to stand under the powerful spray. It was powerful enough to blow my bathing suit straps down, so it couldn't be described as a "spa" experience, but memorable nonetheless.

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After all that heat and humidity, we were ready for a swim in the Olympic-sized pool (regular temperature), but alas, it was not be be. We arrived to find a gentleman cleaning out the pool, readying it for the opening for Semana Santa (Easter week).

We contented ourselves with a lovely lunch instead.

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Our last photo of the day. We watched this little girl feeding the pigeons - very carefully breaking up her bread into tiny pieces and tossing them carefully to the birds. She quietly went about her task, until her little brother stormed in. He flew at the birds, his small feet kicking out at them. We have watched children chase pigeons all over Mexico - like dogs chasing squirrels. We always wonder what they would do if they ever caught them.

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Posted by millerburr 20:27 Archived in Mexico Comments (2)

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